Rolling stock and a good night’s sleep. Sleeper trains in the UK cover the spectrum from luxury to practical but always come with a dose of romance. Far from being an anachronism, the experience is being updated with spa carriages, cocktail bars and new berths.
The Royal Scotsman from Belmond, (formerly Orient Express) is the bells and whistle option, nostalgia-laden, white-glove service and a self-confessed ‘country house on wheels’ ambience. It carries 36 passengers in extreme comfort with 15 fully ensuite cabins plus two restaurant cars and an open deck veranda in the observation car (which demonstrates commendable faith in the Scottish weather) alongside copious amounts of tartan and wood panelling. New for 2017 is a spa carriage made from sustainable wood and treatment rooms with picture windows, which will have treatments from the organic-minded Bamford company.
The two-night Highland Journey takes in Rothiemurchus country estate and a whisky distillery on Scotland’s East Coast. The longest journey, the seven-night Grand Tour, visits Aviemore and the site of the Battle of Culloden before heading through the Lake District to the Roman town of Chester and crossing into Wales, including Gwydir and Caernarfon castles. After this, it’s time to head to Bath for its famous Georgian architecture, the ancient university city of Cambridge and the equally venerable York. Prices for the Grand Tour start at £8,991pp, including all meals, drinks and excursions, with the Highland Journey starting at £2,856pp.
Away from Belmond’s ultra luxury, there are two train lines that offer a more affordable way to sleep your way to a destination in the UK. England and Scotland have had sleepers running between them since the 1850s. These days, the Caledonian Sleeper is run by Scot Rail and, through strategic decoupling along the line have arrivals Glasgow and Edinburgh before heading into the Highlands. During grouse season, it’s known as the Deerstalker Express as it visits the moorlands around Inverness; the trains can also make stops at the small stations en route to Aberdeen, including Gleneagles Hotel’s own station. Each carriage has a steward to bring you breakfast, there are single and double berths available and if the layout currently feels a bit old-fashioned, 2018 should see significant changes. First class cabins will be en suite, some berths will have double beds and the lounge car will get a refresh, important since it’s the beating heart of the sleeper experience.
The cult departure is the 23.50 from Euston, since it allows for a leisurely evening meal, even a theatre performance. Try, however, to arrive early and leave your bags with the steward before heading to the lounge car. If you manage to get a seat, you’re likely to find yourself with politicians, actors and newscasters as they make the trip north, tucking into a menu that prides itself on its Scottishness and good value, with haggis and a fine array of whisky and is surprisingly good value. Fares start at £160.
In England, the Night Riviera from Great Western runs between London Paddington and stations in Devon and Cornwall. Travelling through the West Country, trains leave at 23.45 from London with stops that include Taunton, Exeter, Newquay and St Ives. Throughout 2017 refurbished carriages will be introduced, including a cocktail area in the lounge car. It may not quite have the ambience of the Caledonian sleeper but the refurbished sleeping cars make up for it; infinitely more comfortable, with USB charging points and better lighting. Fares start at £49.
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